Andy Earl (climber)
| Personal information | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nationality | British | ||||||
| Born | 1976 | ||||||
| Retired from competitions | 2008 | ||||||
| Website |
www | ||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||
| Type of climber | Traditional climbing, bouldering | ||||||
| Highest grade |
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Medal record
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| Updated on 20 May 2013. | |||||||
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Andy Earl is a professional climber and coach[1] from the north-east of England. He is widely considered to be one of the best climbers in the country.[2][3] He excels at both traditional climbing and bouldering having ascended both E9 and Font8b+ graded problems all over Europe. He is based in Newcastle, England where he runs a bouldering wall (Climb Newcastle). He was British bouldering champion from 2003-2006[4] and was on the team for five years.[5]
In 2004 he won the silver medal in bouldering at the European Championships in Birmingham.[6] In 2007 he won the fourth stage of the Bouldering World Cup, in Réunion.[7]
Early life
Andy is the son of John Earl, a long term contributor to the Northumberland climbing scene. John took Andy out climbing at the age of four. Later in his childhood Andy would go sport climbing in the Yorkshire Dales at weekends but turned to bouldering in Northumberland as it was more convenient.
Coaching
After getting his degree in sport science from Sunderland University he toyed with the idea of becoming a physical education but was put off by stories of badly behaved kids, so instead lent his talents to coaching the junior climbing team where he learnt the skills needed to coach the best, which he then did when he got the job as coach of the senior bouldering team, which has shown significant improvements under his leadership but is held back by the lack of sponsorship. Although Andy himself does not have this problem as he is sponsored by Scarpa, E9, Camp and Rockworks.
Notable ascents
- Monk Life, 8B+, Northumberland. (Second ascent)[8]
- Blood Sport, 8B, Shaftoe Crags, Northumberland. (First ascent)
- The Bitch, 8A+, Northumberland. (First ascent)
- Desperado, 8A+, Northumberland. (First ascent)
- Cypher, 8B, UK.[9]
- High Fidelity, 8B, UK.[10]
- The Ace, 8B, UK.[9]
- Careless Torque, 8A, UK.
- The Dark Side, E9, Back Bowden Doors, Northumberland. (First ascent)
- The Prow, E9, Northumberland. (First ascent)
- The Young, E8, Northumberland. (First ascent)
- Endless Flight Direct, E8, Northumberland. (First ascent)[11]
Climb Newcastle
Climb Newcastle, opened in 2008, is one of the most extensive indoor climbing centres in the world and features an overhanging cave joining onto a training room complete with many fingerboards, a campus board, a couple of Swiss balls and written instructions on loads of exercises to get you strong. It has a massive pool complete with a large roof and two other overhanging walls. Alongside are two other corridors with technical slabs and a kids room. The centre is overseen by worldwide stars Chris Graham, Adam Watson, Andy Earl himself and many more.
References
- ↑ "Youngster is top of the climbing class". The Northern Echo. September 29, 2003.
- ↑ Iain Laing (August 7, 2008). "Climbers Hope To Hit Business Heights". The Journal.
- ↑ Tom Mullen (March 20, 2008). "Pals Have Lofty Idea For Area". Evening Chronicle.
- ↑ Nicola Juncar (September 21, 2006). "Rock star". EVENING CHRONICLE.
- ↑ David Old (May 9, 2009). "Living The High Life On A Budget". Evening Chronicle.
- ↑ "UIAA European Championship - Lecco (ITA) 2004". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 20 May 2013.
- ↑ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - La Reunion (FRA) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 20 May 2013.
- ↑ Dan Dewell. "Andrew Earl, The Ace Climber". climbing.com. Retrieved 20 May 2013.
- 1 2 "Ben Moon, Tyler Landman and Andy Earl bouldering hard". planetmountain.com. 8 December 2006. Retrieved 20 May 2013.
- ↑ Mick Ryan (November 2007). "Andrew Earl Repeats High Fidelity...highball V13". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 20 May 2013.
- ↑ "New E8 for Andrew Earl in Northumberland". ukclimbing.com. July 2004. Retrieved 20 May 2013.