Andy Harris (mountain guide)

Andy "Harold" Harris (29 September 1964 – 10 May 1996) was a New Zealand mountain guide who died in the 1996 Mount Everest disaster. Harris was one of the guides for the Adventure Consultants 1996 Everest expedition, led by Rob Hall. It was Harris' first attempt to summit Mount Everest, but his climbing experience in New Zealand made him qualified to guide.^[1]

Biography

At the time of his death, Harris was survived by his parents Ron and Marry Harris, his older brother David Harris, and his physician girlfriend Fiona McPherson. He was living with McPherson and in the process of building a house with her in the hills outside Queenstown.^[2]

At a younger age, Harris was a student at Francis Douglas Memorial College in New Plymouth.^[3]

During the winter months, Harris was employed as a helicopter skiing guide. During the summer, he worked for scientists conducting archaeological research in Antarctica (as a New Zealand Antarctic Research Program (NZARP) field leader from 1987 till 1992),^[4] or escorted climbers into New Zealand's Southern Alps.^[5][6]

In 1985 Harris climbed Chobutse (6690m), a difficult peak which stands close to Everest.^[5]

In the fall of 1994, he helped McPherson in a medical clinic in Pheriche. The clinic's main purpose was to treat altitude-related illnesses.^[2]

On 10 May 1996, Harris reached the summit of Mount Everest, but died during the descent.

1996 Everest Disaster

The Adventure Consultants' Everest expedition of 1996 consisted of 3 guides (Rob Hall, Mike Groom, and Andy Harris) and eight clients (Frank Fischbeck, Doug Hansen, Stuart Hutchison, Lou Kasischke, Jon Krakauer, Yasuko Namba, John Taske, and Beck Weathers).

Before even reaching Base Camp, Harris suffered from multiple gastrointestinal attacks at the lodge in Lobuje, while the party was preparing to go to Base Camp. Despite being advised to remain at Lobuje one more night, Harris proceeded to Base Camp with the rest of the party on 8 April 1996.

On 8 May during a climb, Harris was struck in the chest by a boulder the size of a small television. Although shocked, Harris continued to climb, but later realized that if the boulder had hit his head, he would not have survived.^[7]

Shortly after midnight on 10 May, the Adventure Consultants expedition began a summit attempt from Camp IV, on top of the South Col.

At approximately 1:12 PM, Harris, Anatoli Boukreev, and Krakauer reached the top of Everest. They then started to descend. Krakauer asked Harris if he could turn off his oxygen, so he could save it. Harris complied but accidentally turned the oxygen all the way up.^[8]

Later on, Harris checked on some oxygen canisters near the Southeast Ridge, and stated they were all empty, which they were not.^[8] It is believed Harris was suffering from hypoxia, which would explain some of the irrational actions he took. It has, however, never been proven.

On 11 May people at Camp IV realized Harris was missing. Krakauer had reported that Harris had reached the camp, but it turned out that Krakauer had been speaking to someone else and that Harris had never reached it.

Harris' ice axe and jacket were found near Rob Hall's body several days later. Before he died, Hall also mentioned that Harris had been with him, but was now missing.^[9] It is likely that Harris went to aid Rob Hall and Doug Hansen when they were trapped higher up on the mountain as the storm came in.^[10] It is unknown what truly happened to him; his body was never found.^[11]

Krakauer, who survived the disaster, wrote a book on the subject a couple of months after the events. He personally feels responsible for Harris' death.^[12]

Memorial

A few minutes from Gorakshep towards the Everest Base Camp, a memorial was built for the members of the Adventure Consultants' team that died during the expedition: Andy Harris, Rob Hall, Doug Hansen and Yasuko Namba.^[13]

Legacy

In 1998, New Zealand Geographic Board named a peak at Victoria Land, Antarctica, after Harris. Harris Peak is located between Mount Hall and Ball Peak, names associated with Harris'.^[6]

For his bravery, Harris received a Bravery Star in 1999,^[14] and his old school held a special tribute in his honor.^[3]

In the 2015 film Everest, Harris is portrayed by actor Martin Henderson.

See also

• List of Mount Everest guides

References