Dmitri Sarafutdinov

Dmitri Sarafutdinov

Climbing at the Bouldering Worldcup August 2012
Personal information
Nationality Russian
Born (1986-09-16) 16 September 1986[1]
Climbing career
Type of climber Boulderer
Highest grade
Updated on 2 September 2013.

Dmitri Sarafutdinov (Russian: Дмитрий Шарафутдинов; born 16 September 1986 in Korkino) is a professional Russian rock climber specializing in bouldering climbing competitions. He has won three World Championships, in 2007,[2] 2011[3] and 2012[4] and one Bouldering World Cup in 2013.[5]

Biography

Dmitri started climbing when he was six years old and trained in a small climbing gym in Korkino.

In 2002 he started competing in the youth speed and lead disciplines. In 2002 he won the bronze medal in speed Youth A at the World Youth Championship in Canteleu, France[6] and in 2004 he won the bronze medal in lead Junior at the World Youth Championship in Edinburgh.[7]

In 2003 he began competing in the senior categories, in lead, speed and bouldering disciplines and in 2004 he won the Russian Climbing Championship in bouldering.[8] From 2007 he focused on bouldering where he achieved his greatest success.

On 24 April 2007 Dmitri took his first podium in the Bouldering World Cup placing second in Sofia,[9] and on 23 June he gained his first victory at Fiera di Primiero, Italy.[10] He ended the season in second place behind Kilian Fischhuber.[11] In the same year he won his first gold medal at the World Championships in Avilés, Spain.[2]

In 2011 he achieved five podiums and the final second place in the Bouldering World Cup[12] and his second gold medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy.[3] In 2012 he won his third World Championships, in Paris.[4]

On July 2012 he climbed his hardest route, the 9a+ (5.15a) Ali-Hulk extension in Rodellar, Spain. The route consists in a boulder (climbed without rope) and a sport climbing route linked together.[13]

In 2013 he has won his first Bouldering World Cup title, with two wins, one second and two podiums finishes out of eight events.[5]

Number of medals in the World Cup

Bouldering

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007 2 1 3
2008 2 1 3
2009
2010 1 1 2
2011 2 2 1 5
2012 1 1 2
2013 2 1 2 5
2014 2 2 4
Total 12 9 3 24

References

  1. "Dmitry Sharafutdinov Interview". 17 July 2012. Retrieved 3 May 2013.
  2. 1 2 "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  3. 1 2 "Dmitry Sharafutdinov and Anna Stöhr crowned Boulder World Champions at Arco". planetmountain.com. 17 July 2011. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  4. 1 2 Franz Schiassi (17 September 2012). "World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  5. 1 2 "Results of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Munich 2013". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 26 August 2013.
  6. "UIAA Youth World Championship Speed – Canteleu (FRA) 2002". ifsc-climbing.org. 27 September 2002. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  7. "UIAA World Youth Championship – Edinburgh (GBR) 2004". ifsc-climbing.org. 12 September 2004. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  8. "Russian Climbing Championship. Ekaterinburg. Bouldering. Speed.". mountain.ru. 16 February 2004. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  9. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) – Sofia (BUL) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. 21 April 2007. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  10. "Bouldering World Cup 2007, Fiera di Primiero won by Sharafutdinov and Gros". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  11. "Bouldering World Cup 2007 won by Fischhuber and Danion". planetmountain.com. 12 November 2007. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  12. "Bouldering World Cup 2011 won by Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr". planetmountain.com. 23 August 2011. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  13. "Dmitry Sharafutdinov repite 'Alí Hulk extension' 9a+ en Rodellar" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 26 July 2012. Retrieved 10 June 2013.
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